Keeping the stance organised means no rope tangles
We will look at:
1.leading with appropriate rope systems for on multi pitch routes
2. Stance organisation. Location, preparation
3. Rope management
4. Belay systems
5. Abseiling
Techniques for abseiling looking where you are going is one!
1. Leading with appropriate rope systems for on multi pitch routes
Double vs Single vs twin ropes for routes
Equalised anchors reduces impact loading on the gear
2. Stance Organisation
Stance management is the general term used to describe the organisation of everybody on a stance, on multi-pitch routes. This organisation includes elements such as correct belay plate orientation, rigging of anchors; placement of leader/second on stance relative to a variety of factors e.g. hazards, belaying etc, organisation of ropes. It is perhaps the most difficult part of working on multi-pitch routes to ‘get right’, as efficient solutions tend to involve not just using the right technique(s), but adapting the relevant skills to the type of stance you are using. Many problems can be avoided if you work in a methodical manner. The main principals being:
Safety of climbers on stance
Efficient changeover at belays
Stance can accommodate everybody
Is organised such that the leader can move off with the minimum of fuss and disruption
Leader and second stacked in climbing order (e.g. leader at top/outside; second at bottom/inside)
Make sure you have good communication with your second
Leader on stance at side they will move off from for next pitch
3. Rope Management
leader/second clipped in without crossing ropes
Sort ropes out so leaders rope on top of stack (back coiled)
Outside of stance clear (e.g. no axes or human runners!)
Tying into anchors (single and multiple): linking anchors with sling Vs tying into anchors
Clipping ropes and extending runners
4. Belay Systems
Appropriate belay methods, belay plate; direct belay (Italian Hitch/Plaquette).
Pros and cons of methods
Selecting a stance
Protecting the belay immediately on leaving the stance
SEMI INDIRECT
Leader tied into belay using rope
Belay plate (ATC or similar) clipped into rope loop on harness
NOTE: Position of braking hand is crucial using this method
Pros
Method is common practice.
Leader can feel the second
Can be easier to give a tight rope in extremis, or hoist
Avoids full impact force on the belay in the event of a fall. (Use of rope, and dynamic belay increases dynamic element in system)
Cons
Difficult to bring two partners up at same time if moving at different speeds. If one second weights the rope it is impossible to take in/pay out the other rope through the plate.
leader is in the system necessitating a potentially complicated escape if required
DIRECT
Italian Hitch on HMS krab clipped to attachment point (usually a single point from linked anchors)
NOTE: Requires ‘bomb proof’ anchors
Pros
Less strain on belayer
Leader not in the system
Fast method of bringing up second(s)
Two seconds can be brought up independently, simultaneously. (Rope automatically locks if loaded but allows independent operation of other rope)
Tight rope can be given
Cons
Not standard practice
Difficult to provide tight rope in extremis
Requires ‘bomb proof’ anchors
PLAQUETTE (NEW ALP ‘MAGIC PLATE)
Clipped to attachment point on main belay
Not standard practice
Very difficult/impossible to second if loaded (one-way clutch).
Not crossing over ropes aids easy climbing
5. Abseiling
From rock anchors.
Backing up anchor for first person down.
Cows tail on harness for clipping into belay.
Use of friction devices.
Use of French Pruissick as ‘Dead Man’s Handle’
The Anglesey Coastal Path from Moel y Don along the Strait to the Menai Suspension Bridge
Adventure Holidays, Isle of Anglesey, Private Guiding, WalkingLooking from the Anglesey Coastal Path at the Britannia bridge The path runs below it
Anglesey Coastal Path Beautiful views across the Menai strait from Moel y Don
Climbing in Llanberis Pass Snowdonia on Clogwyn y Grochan, We climbed the routes Brant Direct, Slape and Kaisergebirge Wall
Adventure Holidays, Mountaineering, Private Guiding, Rock Climbing, SnowdoniaSlape first pitch (VS 5a) Clogwyn y Grochan, It weaves about the face
A day out multi pitch climbing on Clogwyn y Grochan. Sorting out rope skills for big mountaineering routes. First we climbed Brant Direct. This climb feels like it was never going to submit! It’s sustained with plenty of opportunity for climbing techniques like drop knees, bridging, hand and fist jamming. Just don’t put in too much gear as you will never make it otherwise. Placing gear when you are off balance is strenuous. The route quite exposed for a groove and never gives up it is of course a great HVS lead. Very much worth 3 stars or more. Next route was Slape (VS 5a) Clogwyn y Grochan 4 pitches up Clogwyn y Grochan weaving about the cliff requiring god route finding skills. The crux 2nd pitch feels more like 5b but protectable and great fun. We finished on Kaisergebirge Wall Clogwyn y Grochan (HVS 5a) A good route that has the crux at the end. Follow the traverse-line leftwards to a ledge. Climb the steep groove above to gain a ledge dotted with trees and belay off them. For multi pitch climbing skills have a look at http://mountaineeringjoe.co.uk/rock-climbing-courses-snowdonia/
Loads of exposure on Slape Clogwyn y Grochan on the 4th pitch
A day out walking in Snowdonia while cruising around the British Isles
Private Guiding, Snowdonia, WalkingA water stop before the final push to the top
Snowdon: A most magificant valley leading up to it
The Lead Climber course : Organising the leader for multi-pitch climbing
Mountaineering, Private Guiding, Rock Climbing, Scrambling, SnowdoniaKeeping the stance organised means no rope tangles
1.leading with appropriate rope systems for on multi pitch routes
2. Stance organisation. Location, preparation
3. Rope management
4. Belay systems
5. Abseiling
Techniques for abseiling looking where you are going is one!
1. Leading with appropriate rope systems for on multi pitch routes
Double vs Single vs twin ropes for routes
Equalised anchors reduces impact loading on the gear
2. Stance Organisation
Stance management is the general term used to describe the organisation of everybody on a stance, on multi-pitch routes. This organisation includes elements such as correct belay plate orientation, rigging of anchors; placement of leader/second on stance relative to a variety of factors e.g. hazards, belaying etc, organisation of ropes. It is perhaps the most difficult part of working on multi-pitch routes to ‘get right’, as efficient solutions tend to involve not just using the right technique(s), but adapting the relevant skills to the type of stance you are using. Many problems can be avoided if you work in a methodical manner. The main principals being:
Safety of climbers on stance
Efficient changeover at belays
Stance can accommodate everybody
Is organised such that the leader can move off with the minimum of fuss and disruption
Leader and second stacked in climbing order (e.g. leader at top/outside; second at bottom/inside)
Make sure you have good communication with your second
Leader on stance at side they will move off from for next pitch
3. Rope Management
leader/second clipped in without crossing ropes
Sort ropes out so leaders rope on top of stack (back coiled)
Outside of stance clear (e.g. no axes or human runners!)
Tying into anchors (single and multiple): linking anchors with sling Vs tying into anchors
Clipping ropes and extending runners
4. Belay Systems
Appropriate belay methods, belay plate; direct belay (Italian Hitch/Plaquette).
Pros and cons of methods
Selecting a stance
Protecting the belay immediately on leaving the stance
SEMI INDIRECT
Leader tied into belay using rope
Belay plate (ATC or similar) clipped into rope loop on harness
NOTE: Position of braking hand is crucial using this method
Pros
Method is common practice.
Leader can feel the second
Can be easier to give a tight rope in extremis, or hoist
Avoids full impact force on the belay in the event of a fall. (Use of rope, and dynamic belay increases dynamic element in system)
Cons
Difficult to bring two partners up at same time if moving at different speeds. If one second weights the rope it is impossible to take in/pay out the other rope through the plate.
leader is in the system necessitating a potentially complicated escape if required
DIRECT
Italian Hitch on HMS krab clipped to attachment point (usually a single point from linked anchors)
NOTE: Requires ‘bomb proof’ anchors
Pros
Less strain on belayer
Leader not in the system
Fast method of bringing up second(s)
Two seconds can be brought up independently, simultaneously. (Rope automatically locks if loaded but allows independent operation of other rope)
Tight rope can be given
Cons
Not standard practice
Difficult to provide tight rope in extremis
Requires ‘bomb proof’ anchors
PLAQUETTE (NEW ALP ‘MAGIC PLATE)
Clipped to attachment point on main belay
Not standard practice
Very difficult/impossible to second if loaded (one-way clutch).
Not crossing over ropes aids easy climbing
5. Abseiling
From rock anchors.
Backing up anchor for first person down.
Cows tail on harness for clipping into belay.
Use of friction devices.
Use of French Pruissick as ‘Dead Man’s Handle’
Dinas Cromlech and Flying Buttress a classic route!
Mountaineering, Private Guiding, Rock Climbing, SnowdoniaDinas Cromlech and Flying Buttress a classic route!
A steep and of course a classic route which has incredible exposure and is the finest VD in Llanberis Pass. 6 Pitches of full on climbing! A wide range of climbing over pinnacles, arêtes, down climbing, walls and a chimney. The most exposed pitch is the main wall on the third pitch but of course the crux is the chimney at the top, well getting into it! http://mountaineeringjoe.co.uk/rock-climbing-courses-snowdonia/
In the chimney the crux of Flying Buttress a classic route!
Grade 3 Scrambling on the Dolmen Ridge on the Glyders, Snowdonia
Mountaineering, Private Guiding, Scrambling, SnowdoniaLooking down in to Ogwen Valley
The Dolmen Ridge is so enjoyable in this sunny weather. Awkward to start with full on pitches and easing towards the top! But nice scrambling all the way to the top of the cliff. A great day in the shade on this long curving ridge all the way summiting on Glyder Fach. Take a look at scrambling options on http://mountaineeringjoe.co.uk/rock-scrambling-courses/
Fantastic views across Ogwen Valley
Grooved Arête and Bastow Buttress, East face of Tryfan, Snowdonia, Mountaineering Joe
Adventure Holidays, Mountaineering, Private Guiding, Rock Climbing, Scrambling, SnowdoniaGroove Arête, East face of Tryfan, Snowdonia, below the crux
The final groove, It never gives up!
Scrambling on Heather Terrace on the East face of Tryfan, Ogwen Valley, Snowdonia
Mountaineering, Private Guiding, Rock Climbing, Scrambling, SnowdoniaFirst Principle Rib :On Yellow Slab pitch
A great out scrambling on the East Face of Tryfan in the Ogwen Valley. We scrambled up Bastow Buttress and then down Nor Nor Groove and up First Principle Rib to Finish on the summit of Tryfan. Excellent day by all accounts
Looking down Bastow Gully
ML Refresher course looking at Snowdonia’s flowers
Snowdonia, Uncategorized, WalkingThe flowers of Snowdonia are abundant as this time of the year so it was great to spend time looking at what was flowering as a part of a ML refresher and the weather was just perfect for it!
http://mountaineeringjoe.co.uk/
Guided Rock Climbing in Snowdonia at Ogwen Valley on Idwal Slabs, Holly Tree Wall, Continuation Wall and then over to Grey Slabs
Adventure Holidays, Mountaineering, Private Guiding, Rock Climbing, SnowdoniaTennis shoe direct start (E1): Run out in places
We started the direct start to Tennis Shoe (E1) which is a bit run out in places with marginal gear but then we join Tennis shoe halfway up the slabs. On Holy Tree Wall we climbed Don’t use a piton blade (HVS) but it felt a lot harder then continuation crack on continuation wall with it hard start and finished on Grey Slabs …an excellent good day out!
Just don’t stop!
http://mountaineeringjoe.co.uk/rock-climbing-courses-snowdonia/