rock climbing

The Idwal Squeeze (V1), Idwal Cottage Crag, Ogwen Valley - squashed and squeezed

Squashed and squeezed in the Idwal Squeeze

,

Isaac having fun completing the Idwal Squeeze (V1), bouldering at Idwal Cottage Crag, Ogwen Valley.

The Idwal Squeeze (V1), Idwal Cottage Crag, Ogwen Valley - it is tight in here

The Idwal Squeeze (V1), Idwal Cottage Crag, Ogwen Valley – it is tight in here

‘Awesome, wicked, a nightmare, squashed and squeezed – thanks for the encouragement Joe. I loved it after I got over the fear of getting stuck in there!’  Isaac.

Nearly there – it is a bit tight in here!

The Idwal Squeeze (V1), Idwal Cottage Crag, Ogwen Valley - exit push

The Idwal Squeeze (V1), Idwal Cottage Crag, Ogwen Valley – exit push

 

 

 

One more push should do it.

 

The Idwal Squeeze (V1), Idwal Cottage Crag, Ogwen Valley - conquered

The Idwal Squeeze (V1), Idwal Cottage Crag, Ogwen Valley – conquered

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sorted – that was brilliant.

 

 

 

Well done Isaac.

 

Enjoy a day of private instruction tailored to your requirements with Mountaineering Joe

 

Climbing calls: Be clear and unambiguous

Sandra and I were climbing in the Llanberis Pass recently and observed a climber getting into difficulty. The ‘call’ the second climber was making to the lead climber was unclear. As a result the ‘call’ was misinterpreted by the leader.

The climber required a ‘tight rope’ as he negotiated a difficult section on the climb. However, his instruction to the lead climber was “take in slack.”

The leader interpreted this as ‘slack.’ That is what the lead climber heard with the direction of the wind and the distance between the two climbers. The lead climber duly let out more rope. This happened twice and by now the second climber had a loop of rope below him. He started to look uncomfortable on his stance.

Sandra (who could see the climber below her) called up to me, to shout instructions to the lead climber to ‘take in’ the rope, which he did and their climb continued without incident. Of course, it could have been a different story.

Remember, climbing calls should be clear and unambiguous.

Take In’ This is the call from the climber when they require rope taking in.

‘Slack’ This is the call a climber makes when they require more rope.

DO NOT put the two ‘calls’ together in the same sentence.

Other climbing calls are:

  • ‘Climb when ready’ The belayer is letting their partner know that they have them on belay, they are ready to protect them and they can start climbing.
  • ‘Climbing’ The climber is letting the belayer know that they are ready to start climbing.
  • ‘OK’ The belayer acknowledges the climbers call.
  • ‘Safe’The leader is informing the second that they are secured to a belay and that they can be taken off the belay device.
  • ‘Off Belay’ The second is telling the lead climber that they have been taken off the belay device.
  • ‘Taking In’ The leader is letting the second know that they are taking in (pulling in) all of the slack rope between them.
  • ‘That’s Me’ The second is informing the leader that the rope is now tight and the lead climber has now pulled all of the rope in between them.
  • ‘Below’ This is a warning call from a climber above telling you that something has been dislodged (ie a rock) or dropped (some gear) and it is heading down the route, potentially towards you
  • ‘Rope Below’ A climber will give this warning call when they are about to throw a rope down the rock face.

Enjoy your climbing

Where is Joe on his day off? On the rock of course – Rhoscolyn, Holy Island, Isle of Anglesey

Spectacular short sea-cliff routes, secluded coves, turquoise seas and sunshine. What more could you want on your day off?

Joe climbing on the rocky shores at Rhoscolyn, Anglesey

Joe climbing on the rocky shores at Rhoscolyn, Anglesey

Joe traversing the rocky cliffs at Rhoscolyn, Holy Island, Anglesey.

Rhoscolyn is an area of outstanding geological interest and is a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI). Check the BMC website for any access restrictions

Learning to lead climb on Tryfan Bach

Learning to lead climb safely and confidently under private instruction

,

Mountaineering Joe received a private instruction booking and a challenge from Paddy Wilmot. “Can you teach me to lead climb at VS grade in 3 days?”

Paddy says: “I have been climbing for a couple of years as a second to my climbing partner and including a couple of HVS’s I’ve never failed on a climb when seconding. But leading is a whole new ball game. I called Mountaineering Joe and set him this challenge. His response was – well, let’s see.”

Paddy thoroughly enjoyed his 3 days learning to lead climb and sent Mountaineering Joe an account of his experience.

“on the first day we climbed diffs and V.diffs and concentrated on the principles and techniques of setting up belays. For example, always maintaining a loaded system, to avoid the dangers of shock loading. On day 2, in the morning, Joe had me climb the same level and even a mod making me place gear in every possible placement, until I emptied a full rack.

Learning to lead climb on Tryfan Bach

Learning to lead climb on Tryfan Bach

In the afternoon, we tackled a delicate severe on Tryfan Bach which after balking at a few times I finally took on and won. By this stage I had got it. I was seeing anchor points and picking gear quickly and placing it securely.

Throughout his patience was extreme and his encouragement was quiet and unpatronising. I had worked out on day 1 that I had set him an impossible challenge but I was extremely pleased with myself after leading the severe. I had achieved what I wanted to achieve which was to learn how to lead a climb safely and confidently. I was confident in my gear placements and in my belays. I understood how it all worked.

On day 3 refusing to balk at the challenge Joe took me to lead a VS. Joe can teach you to climb. he keeps it simple and bullet proof. He can teach you to find good placements for safety and how to recognise unsafe ones. He wont allow any mistake to creep in. Every screw-gate must always be closed etc. But, he cant teach you courage!

I enjoyed the climb. It ended in a 50m abseil. After a few more V.diffs and severes I’ll have another go at leading it.”

We are glad you had a great experience Paddy. Keep enjoying the climbing and we look forward to climbing with you again.

Well looked after on private instruction day, climbing on Tryfan Bach

,

Brigid Baxter certainly enjoyed her rock climbing experience on Tryfan Bach (Little Tryfan) with Joe and she’s looking forward to doing a lot more:

Climbing on Tryfan Bach (Little Tryfan)

Climbing on Tryfan Bach (Little Tryfan)

“Hi Joe, I want to say a really big thank you very much for looking after us so well and for the much appreciated teaching you gave Kerry and myself to take our climbing to the next level”

Encouragement leads to success on a ‘Rock Climbing for Beginners’ course

,

What Stephanie Curran had to say about the ‘Rock Climbing for Beginners’  day out with Joe instructing:

“My first attempt at rock climbing was last year in the Snowdonia mountains at Tryfan Bach, with Joe leading our small group. It took some encouragement by the other group members to persuade me, initially, to have a go at the climb. Joe was very reassuring about it, telling me it was an excellent rock face to attempt a first climb.

There were a few other small groups climbing however no-one else had an instructor with them. Joe explained the safety equipment and signals and then we were off. He talked to me throughout the climb offering me advice when I seemed unsure and making me feel confident to the point that I abseiled down with a big grin on my face.

Thanks Joe for making me laugh throughout and inspiring me to ‘carry on’ up the mountains.”

Well done Stephanie.