rock climbing

A great hand jam on Lorraine Dinas Mot Snowdonia

Multi pitch climbing in Snowdonia

, , ,
Some fine moves on Western slabs Dinas Mot Snowdonia

Some fine moves on Western slabs Dinas Mot Snowdonia

A day out guiding on Dinas Mot in Llanberis Pass Snowdonia. A great day out on Rock climbing. We climbed the route Lorraine on the left hand side and then Western Slabs on the right. Both excellent multi pitch rock routes. The weather was excellent! Fancy getting out on to multi pitch routes? http://mountaineeringjoe.co.uk/rock-climbing-courses-snowdonia/

The crux pitch on Western Slabs Dinas Mot

The crux pitch on Western Slabs Dinas Mot

Multi-pitch Rock Climbing in Ogwen Valley at Idwal Slabs, in Snowdonia

, , ,

Rosie really enjoying herself on the climb, Idwal Slabs Snowdonia

Rosie really enjoying herself on the climb, Idwal Slabs Snowdonia

Father and daughter climbing together on multi-pitch routes in Cwm Idwal. They often go climbing together on single pitch climbs, but Patrick wanted to take his daughter Rosie climbing on multi-pitch routes. We spend the day looking at belay state management and teaching Rosie the techniques involves with Multi pitch climbing. We did the Ordinary Route over 6 pitches and then practiced short roping Rosie off the top of Idwal slabs and protected her on the descent down the off the back of the slabs. Do you want to move onto climbing multi pitch routes but need pointing in the right direction? Have a look at what Mountaineering Joe had to offer.

http://mountaineeringjoe.co.uk/rock-climbing-courses-snowdonia/

A great day out multi pitch climbing in Snowdonia

A great day out multi pitch climbing in Snowdonia

Climbing in Llanberis Pass Snowdonia on Clogwyn y Grochan, We climbed the routes Brant Direct, Slape and Kaisergebirge Wall

, , , ,
Slape first pitch (VS 5a) Clogwyn y Grochan, It weaves about the face

Slape first pitch (VS 5a) Clogwyn y Grochan, It weaves about the face

A day out multi pitch climbing on Clogwyn y Grochan. Sorting out rope skills for big mountaineering routes. First we climbed Brant Direct. This climb feels like it was never going to submit! It’s sustained with plenty of opportunity for climbing techniques like drop knees, bridging, hand and fist jamming. Just don’t put in too much gear as you will never make it otherwise. Placing gear when you are off balance is strenuous. The route quite exposed for a groove and never gives up it is of course a great HVS lead. Very much worth 3 stars or more. Next route was Slape (VS 5a) Clogwyn y Grochan 4 pitches up Clogwyn y Grochan weaving about the cliff requiring god route finding skills. The crux 2nd pitch feels more like 5b but protectable and great fun. We finished on Kaisergebirge Wall Clogwyn y Grochan (HVS 5a) A good route that has the crux at the end. Follow the traverse-line leftwards to a ledge. Climb the steep groove above to gain a ledge dotted with trees and belay off them. For multi pitch climbing skills have a look at http://mountaineeringjoe.co.uk/rock-climbing-courses-snowdonia/

Loads of exposure on Slape Clogwyn y Grochan on the 4th pitch

Loads of exposure on Slape Clogwyn y Grochan on the 4th pitch

The Lead Climber course : Organising the leader for multi-pitch climbing

, , , ,

Keeping the stance organised means no rope tangles

Keeping the stance organised means no rope tangles

We will look at:
1.leading with appropriate rope systems for on multi pitch routes
2. Stance organisation. Location, preparation
3. Rope management
4. Belay systems
5. Abseiling
Techniques for abseiling looking where you are going is one!

Techniques for abseiling looking where you are going is one!


1. Leading with appropriate rope systems for on multi pitch routes
Double vs Single vs twin ropes for routes
Equalised anchors reduces impact loading on the gear

Equalised anchors reduces impact loading on the gear


2. Stance Organisation
Stance management is the general term used to describe the organisation of everybody on a stance, on multi-pitch routes. This organisation includes elements such as correct belay plate orientation, rigging of anchors; placement of leader/second on stance relative to a variety of factors e.g. hazards, belaying etc, organisation of ropes. It is perhaps the most difficult part of working on multi-pitch routes to ‘get right’, as efficient solutions tend to involve not just using the right technique(s), but adapting the relevant skills to the type of stance you are using. Many problems can be avoided if you work in a methodical manner. The main principals being:
Safety of climbers on stance
Efficient changeover at belays
Stance can accommodate everybody
Is organised such that the leader can move off with the minimum of fuss and disruption
Leader and second stacked in climbing order (e.g. leader at top/outside; second at bottom/inside)
Make sure you have good communication with your second

Make sure you have good communication with your second


Leader on stance at side they will move off from for next pitch
3. Rope Management

leader/second clipped in without crossing ropes
Sort ropes out so leaders rope on top of stack (back coiled)
Outside of stance clear (e.g. no axes or human runners!)
Tying into anchors (single and multiple): linking anchors with sling Vs tying into anchors
Clipping ropes and extending runners
Learning to lead: Keeping the rope off the rope reduces drag

4. Belay Systems
Appropriate belay methods, belay plate; direct belay (Italian Hitch/Plaquette).
Pros and cons of methods
Selecting a stance
Protecting the belay immediately on leaving the stance
SEMI INDIRECT
Leader tied into belay using rope
Belay plate (ATC or similar) clipped into rope loop on harness
NOTE: Position of braking hand is crucial using this method
Pros
Method is common practice.
Leader can feel the second
Can be easier to give a tight rope in extremis, or hoist
Avoids full impact force on the belay in the event of a fall. (Use of rope, and dynamic belay increases dynamic element in system)
Cons
Difficult to bring two partners up at same time if moving at different speeds. If one second weights the rope it is impossible to take in/pay out the other rope through the plate.
leader is in the system necessitating a potentially complicated escape if required
DIRECT
Italian Hitch on HMS krab clipped to attachment point (usually a single point from linked anchors)
NOTE: Requires ‘bomb proof’ anchors
Pros
Less strain on belayer
Leader not in the system
Fast method of bringing up second(s)
Two seconds can be brought up independently, simultaneously. (Rope automatically locks if loaded but allows independent operation of other rope)
Tight rope can be given

Cons
Not standard practice
Difficult to provide tight rope in extremis
Requires ‘bomb proof’ anchors
PLAQUETTE (NEW ALP ‘MAGIC PLATE)
Clipped to attachment point on main belay
Not standard practice
Very difficult/impossible to second if loaded (one-way clutch).

Not crossing over ropes aids easy climbing

Not crossing over ropes aids easy climbing


5. Abseiling
From rock anchors.
Backing up anchor for first person down.
Cows tail on harness for clipping into belay.
Use of friction devices.
Use of French Pruissick as ‘Dead Man’s Handle’

Dinas Cromlech and Flying Buttress a classic route!

, , ,
Dinas Cromlech and Flying Buttress a classic route!

Dinas Cromlech and Flying Buttress a classic route!

A steep and of course a classic route which has incredible exposure and is the finest VD in Llanberis Pass. 6 Pitches of full on climbing! A wide range of climbing over pinnacles, arêtes, down climbing, walls and a chimney. The most exposed pitch is the main wall on the third pitch but of course the crux is the chimney at the top, well getting into it! http://mountaineeringjoe.co.uk/rock-climbing-courses-snowdonia/

In the chimney the crux of Flying Buttress a classic route!

In the chimney the crux of Flying Buttress a classic route!

Grooved Arête and Bastow Buttress, East face of Tryfan, Snowdonia, Mountaineering Joe

, , , , ,

Groove Arête, East face of Tryfan, Snowdonia, below the crux

Groove Arête, East face of Tryfan, Snowdonia, below the crux

A long day out on the East face of Tryfan, Snowdonia. Climbing Bastow Buttress Variant which is 5 pitches of grade 3 scrambling, and descended the scramble Nor Nor Groove which is grade 2 then up Grooved Arête which is 8 pitches of exposed HVD climbing and then descended Nor Nor Groove again. Perfect day with perfect weather!
The final groove, It never gives up!

The final groove, It never gives up!

Scrambling on Heather Terrace on the East face of Tryfan, Ogwen Valley, Snowdonia

, , , ,

First Principle Rib :On Yellow Slab pitch

First Principle Rib :On Yellow Slab pitch

Guided day out scrambling on Heather Terrace on the East face of Tryfan, Ogwen Valley, Snowdonia.

A great out scrambling on the East Face of Tryfan in the Ogwen Valley. We scrambled up Bastow Buttress and then down Nor Nor Groove and up First Principle Rib to Finish on the summit of Tryfan. Excellent day by all accounts

Looking down Bastow Gully

Looking down Bastow Gully

Guided Rock Climbing in Snowdonia at Ogwen Valley on Idwal Slabs, Holly Tree Wall, Continuation Wall and then over to Grey Slabs

, , , ,
Tennis shoe direct start (E1): Run out in places

Tennis shoe direct start (E1): Run out in places

We started the direct start to Tennis Shoe (E1) which is a bit run out in places with marginal gear but then we join Tennis shoe halfway up the slabs. On Holy Tree Wall we climbed Don’t use a piton blade (HVS) but it felt a lot harder then continuation crack on continuation wall with it hard start and finished on Grey Slabs …an excellent good day out!

Just don't stop!

Just don’t stop!

http://mountaineeringjoe.co.uk/rock-climbing-courses-snowdonia/

Multi Pitch Climbing in Llanberis Pass

, , , , , ,
Getting into a comfortable position is place gear is important

Getting into a comfortable position is place gear is important

A full day out Multi pitch climbing in Llanberis Pass this week. We just had the perfect weather. WE started on Phantom Rib (VS), an exposed rib which is always interesting on Clogwyn Y Grochan, then First Pitch which is another VS that has a committing crux and finally finished on Skylon (HS going on VS for the crux moves) on Carreg Wastad. All good multi pitch Rock climbing routes. a good way of getting your climbing off to a swing start this summer. http://mountaineeringjoe.co.uk/rock-climbing-courses-snowdonia/

Just below the crux

Just below the crux

The latest news on perma-draws from the BMC

, , ,

Wear can eventually lead to sharp edges

Wear can eventually lead to sharp edges

The latest news on perma-draws is just a reminder the risks we take when we assume sport routes are safe as houses. These bits of kit can see a lot of traffic and the wear can leave sharp edges on the rope karabiner leading to rope failure or even failure themselves, with obversely devastating consequences if you should fall on it. The recent BMC Technical Committee report hi-lights what can go wrong when climbers don’t check this kit before using it, and knowing of course when to back off can save your life! This follows a recent incident where a climber in Switzerland suffered a fatal ground fall when his rope was cut, and there has been other incidents where climbers have had their ropes severed but escaped with non fatal injuries. In these cases their ropes were cut by sharp edges cut into permanent quick draws by general wear. Take care!