mountaineering

Multi Pitch Climbing in Llanberis Pass

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Getting into a comfortable position is place gear is important

Getting into a comfortable position is place gear is important

A full day out Multi pitch climbing in Llanberis Pass this week. We just had the perfect weather. WE started on Phantom Rib (VS), an exposed rib which is always interesting on Clogwyn Y Grochan, then First Pitch which is another VS that has a committing crux and finally finished on Skylon (HS going on VS for the crux moves) on Carreg Wastad. All good multi pitch Rock climbing routes. a good way of getting your climbing off to a swing start this summer. http://mountaineeringjoe.co.uk/rock-climbing-courses-snowdonia/

Just below the crux

Just below the crux

The latest news on perma-draws from the BMC

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Wear can eventually lead to sharp edges

Wear can eventually lead to sharp edges

The latest news on perma-draws is just a reminder the risks we take when we assume sport routes are safe as houses. These bits of kit can see a lot of traffic and the wear can leave sharp edges on the rope karabiner leading to rope failure or even failure themselves, with obversely devastating consequences if you should fall on it. The recent BMC Technical Committee report hi-lights what can go wrong when climbers don’t check this kit before using it, and knowing of course when to back off can save your life! This follows a recent incident where a climber in Switzerland suffered a fatal ground fall when his rope was cut, and there has been other incidents where climbers have had their ropes severed but escaped with non fatal injuries. In these cases their ropes were cut by sharp edges cut into permanent quick draws by general wear. Take care!

Welsh 3000s (14 peaks) Challenge this weekend

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Welsh 3000s (14 peaks): Greg confident on the Crib Goch ridgeWelsh 3000s (14 peaks) Challenge this weekend.
Really good weather for the Welsh 3000s at the moment with a distance of 30 odd miles and 14 of Snowdonia’s highest peaks ..what a fantastic walk!

The beautiful sunrise across Snowdonia

The beautiful sunrise across Snowdonia


Have a look at the pictures there are some excellent views across Snowdonia first thing in the morning! Whether you want to attempt this in 24 hours or a more relaxing 2 days staying in mountain accommodation have a look at http://mountaineeringjoe.co.uk/mountaineering/mountain-challenges/ and call for a chat
The Glyders in the background

The Glyders in the background

Climbing Rope work techniques and abseiling in the Snowdonia mountains

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Good stance organisation is essential for multi pitch climbing

Good stance organisation is essential for multi pitch climbing

A day out learning and practicing rope techniques for climbing in the mountains. We spend the day setting up belays and safe ways to Abseil off a route if the weather comes in. We covered so much including leading with appropriate rope systems for on multi pitch routes, stance organisation, Location of you on a stance, rope preparation, Belay systems, and abseiling.
We discussed a lot of climbing issues such as double vs Single vs twin ropes for routes, Safety of climbers on stance. Efficient changeover at belays, stance can accommodate everybody/organised such that the leader can move off with the minimum of fuss and disruption, leader and second stacked in climbing order (e.g. leader at top/outside; second at bottom/inside), leader on stance at side they will move off from for next pitch. Leader/second clipped in without crossing ropes Sort ropes out so leaders rope on top of stack (back coiled). Tying into anchors (single and multiple): linking anchors with sling Vs tying into anchors, clipping ropes and extending runners. Belay direct and in direct. Abseiling from rock anchors, backing up anchor for first person down. Cows tail on harness for clipping into belay, the use of friction devices and the use of the French Prussic.

What a day!

In reach and out of reach anchors

In reach and out of reach anchors

Welsh 3000s Challenge

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The sharp ridge of Grib Goch which is the most technical part of the walk

The sharp ridge of Grib Goch which is the most technical part of the walk

Welsh 3000s Challenge . We are close to the longest days in the year and it’s time its an excellent time do it!
This is the ultimate Snowdonia walking adventure. Traversing the three main Snowdonia Massifs, Snowdon, Glyderau and the Carneddau. Summit all the Snowdonia’s peaks over 3000ft, from Snowdon to Foel Fras. You can plan to do it in 24 hours or over 2 days staying in fully equipped mountains huts.
http://mountaineeringjoe.co.uk/mountaineering/mountain-challenges/ for more information!
Coming down off of Elidir Fawr at the start of the Glyders range

Coming down off of Elidir Fawr at the start of the Glyders range

Climbing multi pitch routes in the Pass with good ropework

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Climbing on the original route VS on Dinas Mot

Climbing on the original route VS on Dinas Mot

Climbing multi pitch routes in the Pass. This day allowed Jim and Simon to practice their stance manage and multi pitch rope in truly exposed situations. A great day out and it all came together for them. If you want to extend your climbing to multi pitch situation but just to check out efficient systems to use let me know. Have a look at http://mountaineeringjoe.co.uk/rock-climbing-courses-snowdonia/

Never a more important time to keep your ropes organised

Never a more important time to keep your ropes organised

Winter Climbing, Ben Nevis area – Morwind grade III, 4 on the east face of Aonach Mor

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Approaching the crux pitch of Morwind

Approaching the crux pitch of Morwind

Morwind is a good 3 star winter buttress route on Aonach Mor taking one of the longest lines on Central Buttress on the east face in fact the whole cliff. The buttress is far less subject to avalanche then the gullies. We abseiled in to avoid easy gully route approach as it looked dangerous and hard going banked out with snow . An excellent mixed route!

An excellent day out climbing the route Main Wall on Cyrn Las. We had just the perfect weather!

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Just entering the chimney on Main wall climb, the third pitch

Just entering the chimney on Main wall climb, the third pitch

It’s the most beautiful valley, the Llanberis Pass, with the best mountaineering route at HS on Cyrn Las. On most days it is cold but with the weather we have at the moment it was the ideal route to do! Cyrn Las is an impressive crag. The route Main Wall, is the easiest route on the cliff, and a classic, but looking up you will struggle to see where it goes zig zaging about on the face.
Excellent exposed pitches on Main Wall

Excellent exposed pitches on Main Wall

A day of working with multi pitch rope work on the Sea Cliffs.

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Being able to see your partner helps in communication. Stopping things going wrong

Being able to see your partner helps in communication. Stopping things going wrong

A great day out at Castel Helen, on the Anglesey sea cliffs. Learning to deal with ropes on multi pitch climbs. Having systems to deal with your ropes can save you time when you don’t have a lot of space hanging around on a sea cliff. Multi pitch climbing requires attention to detail in these space restricted situations.

Keeping the ropes apart helps to stop ropes getting twisted and therefore drag

Keeping the ropes apart helps to stop ropes getting twisted and therefore drag

http://mountaineeringjoe.co.uk/rock-climbing-courses-snowdonia/

Mountain Training have just introduced this new course for people you what to formalise or make the step between hill to mountain walking. The Hill & Mountain Skills Courses.

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Walking in the mountains can be exciting

Walking in the mountains can be exciting

This mountain skills course is all about looking after yourself in the mountains. We spent 2 days and one evening where we covered everything required to enjoy the mountains. Topics which we covered over the weekend included route planning, clothing systems, mountain weather, emergency situations, environmental issues with walking, and a whole lot of navigation in bad visibility . You also will get technical help whenever you need in the future to keep developing your mountain skills and of course a online log book to keep your walks on.

Notice the walking poles put away in order to use both hands on steep ground

Notice the walking poles put away in order to use both hands on steep ground

This is an ideal way to make sure you are equipped for the mountains and to have the confidence to tackle the mountain environment with the skills required!

http://mountaineeringjoe.co.uk/mountain-skills-courses-snowdonia/